Several decades ago, tracts of dense, impassable rainforest consumed the southernmost stretches of Veracruz state, barely penetrated by roads or humanity. Only a few obscure settlements lay hidden in the miles of ravenous foliage, teeming canopies and bursting vegetation skirting the Gulf of Mexico.
Today, southern Veracruz is a less dramatic land of rolling cattle pastures, [...]
From Tuxpan I head south through the verdant landscape passing Poza Rica and arriving in Papantla, a small Totonac town that’s famed for its nearby ruins, El Tajín. The town is busy and replete with all the teeming energy you’d expect from a working indigenous settlement.
Passersby hold animated discussions on street corners. Market vendors sell [...]
Northern Veracruz is a land wrapped in heat and heavy vegetation, winding rivers, exuberant foliage and tropical fruit trees – bananas, papayas, mangos, avocados and plantain – all rising from a bed of ravenous grass and wildly twisting creepers.
In an obscure corner of an obscure state I find myself in the city of Tuxpan – [...]
Veracruz is a city with a Caribbean soul, soaked up with feisty rhythms, feisty people, fierce sunshine, salsa and beautiful spirited madness. Veracruz is hot with music – sensuous and sensual – a city for dancers, drinkers and drunks.
Part grotty industrial port, part elegant colonial jewel, Veracruz derives its endless energy from the melodies spilling [...]
Every year on the first thursday of March, a cavalcade of sorcerers, healers and conjurers descends upon Catemaco, reminiscent of some Dark Age witches’ gathering. They perform dramatic public cleansings (or limpiezas), cast spells, swap potions and engage in endless theatrics.
Originally intended as a knowledge-sharing convention for the region’s healers, it has now become a [...]
Friday, September 11, 2009
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