Volcán Masaya: The Mouth of Hell
The land is scorched and broken. Piles of dark volcanic rubble litter the scene, yet to be properly eroded by sun, wind and rain. Years from now, these rocks will be transformed into fine, fertile silt. But for today, dead, black lava fields cling to the slopes like some monstrous reptilian hide – coarse, inscrutable, alien…
Scant patches of dried up grass gasp for air. Tiny, brittle flowers break through canopy and reach skyward, sunward, to ever more blazing heights. Greyish branches emerge like withered imploring arms, twisted and thirsty.
The slopes rise bleakly towards a vast, yawning crater. A foul, yellowish haze unfolds and fills the sky – toxic clouds of sulphur, smoke and acid, all swirling and rolling in perpetuity. Everything is silent but for the rustling of the wind and the weird hissings of magpie jays. They dance amid tangled banks of undergrowth, exalting the otherworldly grandeur of the scene, of Volcán Masaya. High above, vultures circle with carnivorous glee, devouring the sun and sky.
Background
The Santiago crater of the Volcán Masaya complex is one of the earth’s most accessible volcanic craters – and one of the most active. Protected as a national park, its lava pool is one of only four in the world that has a constant level, neither receding nor discharging but perpetually threatening cataclysm.
Contained by the massive Ventarrón caldera, a giant extinct crater believed to have last erupted in 4550BC, the smoking cone is just one of several peaks in a daunting complex of jagged black mountains and lava flows. Laguna Masaya, too, is part of the Ventarrón caldera.
Dubbed Popogatepe (‘Burning Mountain’) by the Indigenous Chorotega peoples, the volcano was reported to have been a popular religious site by the 16th century Spanish chronicler Oviedo, with many ceremonies and human sacrifices allegedly taking place there.
When Oviedo heard that a grotesque old woman lived inside the crater – complete with devilish black finger nails, cracked skin and matted hair – he became convinced that the crater was a portal to hell. The old woman, who was apparently a gifted seer, was branded as the devil.
Shortly thereafter, responding to the volcano’s infernal reputation, Friar Fransisco Bobadilla attempted an exorcism of the crater by placing a cross at its summit. Although it has been replaced several times, a cross remains in the same spot as he originally planted it.
A subsequent friar, Blas de Castillo, became convinced that the lava pool contained liquid gold. He mounted a complex and somewhat daring expedition to acquire some of the burning magma, but was soon disappointed when his hard fought loot was transformed into worthless black rock.
Volcán Masaya’s last major eruption was in 1772, when it nearly destroyed the historic town of Nindirí. The lava flow was miraculously diverted into the lagoon (so the story goes) when a church icon, Cristo de Volcán, was placed in its path. Another moderate eruption in 1853 forged the Santiago crater as it is today – 500m in circumference and 250m deep.
The volcano erupted periodically throughout the 20th century, spewing tons of toxic sulphur into the air and rendering a brought belt of land to the Pacific uncultivable. A minor eruption on 23 April 2001 sent tubes of lava, rocks and debris onto the hillside, setting it ablaze and damaging several vehicles. Fortunately, there were only minor injuries to the bystanders.
The crater remains decidedly active and visitors should take heed of any persistent rumblings or changes in the colour of the smoke. They are also advised to spend no longer than 20 minutes at the crater’s edge due to the toxicity of the smoke. Asthma sufferers are at special risk and everyone should be prepared for a mild sore throat after visiting Volcán Masaya.
Opening times and admission
Daily 0900-1700, US$4. The visitors’ centre is around 1 ½ km from the entrance. The hike is not terribly demanding, but the heat is intense for lack of shade. Be sure to pack sunscreen and water! The crater itself is another 2-3km uphill through eerie lava fields. Taxis also run there from the entrance, US$1, if you don’t want to walk. Various guided hikes are possible, including night hikes, where you can sometimes glimpse the glowing magma.
Getting there
The Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya is located on the Managua-Granada highway. The high-speed UCA buses, US$1, travelling between Granada, Masaya and Managua pass the entrance; just ask the driver to let you out there.
Thu, Feb 11, 2010
Masaya and around, Short Films