Forged by a massive eruption of Volcán Mombacho – that dark volcanic master who overlooks Granada and its environs – the 354 islets of Las Isletas are composed of rich, black, wonderfully fertile basalt rock. Untold fruit trees, especially mangos, have flourished on the islands, and beyond the well-tended weekend homes of well-heeled Nicaraguans, humble communities of farmers ply a daily living from the soil. Others harvest the surrounding waters, which are rich in guapote and mojarra. Others yet find labour as boatmen or caretakers. Beyond their ramshackle homes, endless hypnotic canals and waterways, lush emerald flora and prolific bird life – egrets, cormorants, ospreys, magpie jays, kingfishers, Montezuma oropendulas, swallows, fly-catchers, parakeets and mot-mots included – conspire to make Las Isletas one of Nicaragua’s most soothing and vivid destinations.
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Where to go
The northern side of the archipelago, closest to the centre of Granada, is the site of many vacation homes, private islands and a small Spanish fort (San Pablo, US$1 to enter). This is the most popular (and cheapest) area to visit. The southern side of the archipelago is home to fascinating and authentic fishing communities, many of which are impoverished.
Most tours will include a stop at a waterside bar or restaurant where you can get refreshments or even take a dip. Many (on the northern side) will visit monkey island, which is home to various species of primate, all introduced artificially. Bring some fruit; they’re quite tame and will happily approach the island’s shore. Both north and south sides have wild stretches, but you’ll have to be slow, quiet and careful if you hope to spot local fauna.
Boat tours
Any tour operator in Granada should be able to arrange a boat tour, around US$15-20 per boat. Otherwise go wandering around the Complejo Turistico (a tourist ‘complex’ which overlooks the lake and has unmistakeable turrets marking the entrance) and you will quickly be approached by touts.
Kayak tours
A much more intimate way to explore the islands is by kayak, preferably early in the morning when wildlife is more active (and hasn’t yet been disturbed by the daily rounds of motorboats). These can be guided or unguided, US$25-35 per person for 3 hours. Try these:
Mombotours – Since appropriating the reputable ‘Island Kayaks’ tour agency, Mombotours has acquired a fine reputation for guided kayak trips around the islands. Convenienty located in downtown Granada.
Innuit Kayaks – Located deep inside the Complejo Turistico, Innuit Kayaks are now a well established operator offering kayak lessons, rentals and various guided tours of Las Isletas.
NicarAgua Dulce – Operating out of the Marina Cocibolca, NicarAgua Dulce offers guided kayak, boat and bird-watching tours of the lesser visited southern side of the archipelago. Pick-up from hotel available.
